I only created one one hand, lower arm, upper arm, upper leg, lower leg and foot model, because I used mirroring to print the parts for the other side of the body. I've redone the knee joints 5 times now and I'm still not happy with them - I may replace them with a separate knee piece to allow the shin to fold back under the thigh to allow the doll to kneel, in the next version. Sometimes I got the joints pretty much right first time (I lucked out with the shoulder joints), but others took several attempts.
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Mostly my joints were made through trial and error: I'd guess the rough sizes and angles, and then I'd print the pieces to try the joints out and then adjust the model(s) based on my observations of how well the printed pieces worked together. I found it tricky to get the balls, sockets and holes at the right angle so that the doll joints would move in a natural direction and also so that the limbs would sit right when the doll was at rest (standing or sitting). I also joined a a donut shape to the very top of the neck to give it a smooth rounded top to fit into the socket at the base of the head, then used the 'Make Solid' tool to create a single solid shape. lozenges and then using the difference tool to subtract them. I hollowed parts of the torso out by creating additional shapes e.g. The symmetry option for the brushes came in handy here because I could smooth two sides of symmetrical parts like the torso simultaneously. I also used smoothing brushes to blend the balls onto the parts, and to reshape parts slightly to make them more doll-like (e.g. Then I used boolean difference to subtract the spheres from the torso and used sculpting brushes to smooth out all around the edges of the new sockets. I added a sphere for each socket and then used the edit tool to transform it to resize it to exactly the right dimensions and position to match the joints I'd created on the corresponding limbs. For the torso, I needed to add sockets for shoulders and hips, and extend the neck, as well as hollow the inside out. Sockets were created by subtracting shapes. For example on this shoulder joint, the arm needs to be able to be raised, so there is a hole for the elastic to sit in the resting position (the elastic is coming out of the body in through the side of the arm joint) as well as the raised position (the elastic comes in through the top) and a channel between those holes for the elastic to pass through while the arm is moving anywhere between those two positions. On the body joints, I added "dog-bone" shaped holes. These started as balls but got smoothed down to a more squashed shape to fit better into the sockets on the ends of the arms and legs. Hands and feet are terminal parts, so they needed joints with holes through them. Then I created long cylinders and moved them so they would run along the inside of the parts and then subtracted them (using the boolean difference tool) to hollow these parts out to make room for the elastic that is used to string a ball jointed doll together. Balls were added as spheres and merged into the existing body part. In part one, I described how I created the base model, sliced it up into parts and how I created the the head.Ĭreating the parts for the body involved starting with each sliced up body part and adding ball joints and sockets. I've been designing a 3D printed ball jointed doll. Designing a 3D printed doll (2) 6 years ago Anna Gerber
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